What camera should I buy?

CHOOSING A POINT-AND-SHOOT

This is one of those processes that can really test your patience. The trouble about choosing a camera is that the more thought and research you put into it, the more confused and indecisive you become.

There are many factors you could consider, and consequently there are a lot of websites out there that drag you through the usual steps of assessing what type of camera is best for your needs. The fact is, you probably already know what type of camera you need, but how do you decide between the 12 megapixel camera with a 2.1 inch LCD screen or the 10 megapixel camera with the 2.4 inch LCD screen. Or for enthusiasts interested in DSLRs, what about the massive decision between Nikon and Canon (or other brands)?? Which is better? How to decide?

I want to make the process simple here.

I've been through this for myself, and have helped other people  do the same thing. Each time I'm approached to give some advice on what camera to buy, my philosophy becomes more and more rudimentary with each step.

If you want a simple point and shoot, these are the things that I don't think really matter:

1. Megapixels. Whether it is 8, 10, 15 or 21. There is a really strong chance that it won't make any difference to you. 
2. Optical zoom. Obviously there is a big difference between 3x and 12x, and you can check this out in the shops but it's not necessary to debate over 3x and 4x.
3. Digital zoom. Don't even think about considering this. It means nothing and should not be advertised.
4. Lens quality. You get better images if you choose a premium model with a good quality glass lens but you'll pay extra for it, so it really comes down to your budget. Generally, it doesn't matter.
5. LCD screen. As long as you can see the images, you are fine. Please don't agonise over 0.1 inches.
6. Subtle differences in the camera's abilities (e.g. ISO range, shutter lag...) probably don't really matter unless you are particularly fussy, in which case you need to go to one of those more technical websites.

Things that do matter:

1. How much you want to spend. Pick your budget and stick to it.
2. Size of the camera. If you want it in your pocket, you will probably need to go slimline.
3. How it feels to hold. Does it feel comfortable? Does it make you want to use it? This is important.
4. The menu. Ask the shop to show you how to preview and delete photos - it should be logical to you and easy to access.
5. Scrolling - this is one of my issues. Being able to scroll quickly through photos by holding a button down instead having to press your way individually and laboriously through all of your collection is really handy.

So it really just comes down to ease of use and having a camera that you are proud to hold in your hands, and makes you want to get outside and snap away at the big wide world. Anything less is doing photography an injustice.

CHOOSING A DSLR

This decision probably should be a lot more complicated, because if you are buying a DSLR, then you are more interested in creating a better image and have more of an inclination towards technical specifications. But really, it does not have to be complicated at all. Many of the considerations for point-and-shoot cameras also apply to DSLRs.

Mainly, I think these are the most important considerations. Probably in order of merit, or close enough to it.

1. Cost. Get your budget sorted, but this has to consider the camera, the lens(es), the carry bag, memory cards, etc. While it may be tempting to get a higher quality body, such as a Canon 50D over a 450D, as a beginner, your best investment is in the lenses. Buy better glass and your images will be much better than if you bought a better body.
2. Feel. Pick up every camera and hold it up to your eye. Take some shots. Feel the weight. Move it around. Does it feel comfortable in your hands? This is something that will be part of your hands for a long time and it needs to feel right to you.
3. Menus and scrolling. As above, you need to feel comfortable with the menu system and the ability to scroll through photos as you sit back checking out your day's photographs and deleting the unwanted shots.
4. Lenses. The question between buying a zoom lens with a wide range (eg. 18-200mm) versus two lenses that do the same thing (e.g. 18-55 and 55-200) is up to you and your budget. It is definitely less painful to have an all-in-one lens and if you are not too worried about crystal-sharp images, then a lens with a wide zoom-range (like the 18-200) is for you. For the best optical quality, you would stick to lenses with fewer moving parts, such as prime lenses that have just one focal length (e.g. 50mm). There are some prime lenses that are so cheap, that it is worth it to keep in your camera bag anyway. Just in case you want to indulge in a project.
5. Brand. In fact, this probably matters the least. Feel should be your main concern. If you are debating between Nikon and Canon (the 2 biggest markets) it really does not matter. It is like deciding between Ford and Holden. You will find that there are enthusiasts that are loyal to their brand, but both take exceptional photos and can be used in all the same photographic pursuits.

For anyone that wants to take their camera comparisons a little further, I'd recommend www.dpreview.com

The difference between full-frame and crop sensors

Some beginners to photography ask about which DSLR camera is best to buy, and one of the considerations is whether they want a camera with a "full-frame" or a "crop" sensor (sometimes called "cropped-frame"). The obvious questions that follow are "What is the difference?" and "Why is that important?".

The difference is actually quite simple, but is understandably confusing when investigating websites and forums on the topic, because there is a lot of technical discussion surrounding terms like 'pixel density', '35mm equivalent', and 'crop factor'.

The sensor is the part of the camera that captures the image. Before digital technology, the 'sensor' was actually one of the single frames on your roll of film. These days, not all sensors are the same size as a film frame, which is why we have these different terms.

So simply, this refers to the size of the sensor in the camera. A full-frame sensor is the same size as a single frame on an old-school roll of film - that is, 35mm. A crop-frame sensor is smaller (how much smaller depends on the brand and model of camera).

Image from www.stevehuffphoto.com

The reason we have smaller, cropped sensors is due to a number of reasons such as cost and fit. A large sensor costs many times more to produce and can only really fit inside larger camera bodies. After all, the mechanics that surround a sensor (such as the shutter curtain) need a bit of space to operate properly.

So when you hear about 'crop factor' this is just how many times larger the full-frame is over the crop. The full-frame might be 1.5x or 1.6x larger. In terms of lenses, this means that a 50mm lens used on a crop sensor will be the same as an 80mm lens on a full-frame (or 35mm equivalent) sensor.

So why is this important?
There are advantages and disadvantages to both types.

The obvious advantage of the full-frame sensor is that more image fits onto the frame. This is great for landscapes or for getting more field-of-view when working in tighter spaces. More field-of-view will also mean less "depth-of-field" in the image. DOF refers to the amount of the photo that is in focus (with out-of-focus foregrounds and backgrounds being outside of the DOF). So basically, on a full-frame you get more blurry foregrounds and more blurry backgrounds - this can be more appealing in many photos. The other advantage is that each individual pixel on a full-frame sensor is slightly bigger which means they have a better sensitivity to light. Therefore, more detail is preserved in shadows and bright highlights (better tonal range). It can be used with more success in low-light situations with less noise. For professional photographers, this is very important.

Image from www.mumbaipav.com

The disadvantage is mainly cost and weight. Cameras with full-frame sensors can be 3x to 10x more expensive than cameras with cropped-frame sensors. So the advantage of full-frame needs to be weighed against budget and purpose.

Crop sensors have the advantage of having a finer resolution (smaller pixels), but this isn't usually too noticeable in images that have not been cropped down further to size. The biggest advantage is that they are better for image quality in zoomed in shots. A 200mm lens on a 1.6x crop sensor is actually equivalent to 320mm. So this would be better for photographing wildlife and sports, provided there is plenty of good light.

The following list shows the more recent cameras of popular brands which have full-frame sensors and which have crop sensors (as of writing of this article):

Crop sensor (common type is called APS-C):
Canon 50D, 60D, 500D, 550D, 600D, 650D, 1000D, 7D
Nikon D300, D60, D90, D5000, D3000, D3100, D3200, D5100, D7000
Sony α A77, A65, A57, A37

Full-frame sensor:
Canon 5D, 6D, 1D
Nikon D3, D4, D600, D700, D800
Sony α A850, A900, A99

Note: outside Australia, Canon cameras may have different names to those shown here, like "Rebel" and "Kiss")